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Active PROJECT GRANT Swedish Research Council

Heroic consumption. Polar exploration and the rise of masculine fashion 1890–1930

27.74M kr SEK

Funder Swedish Research Council
Recipient Organization Lund University
Country Sweden
Start Date Jan 01, 2025
End Date Dec 31, 2027
Duration 1,094 days
Number of Grantees 1
Roles Principal Investigator
Data Source Swedish Research Council
Grant ID 2024-00786_VR
Grant Description

The purpose of this project is to examine how the heroic masculinity associated with polar exploration integrated men’s fashion into modern consumption society at the turn of the twentieth century.

On the surface, the fashion of polar explorers might look like no other, but I aim to show its role in constructing a masculinity that included fashionable consumption, despite contemporary culture gendering it as feminine.

In this project, I argue that polar exploration brought men’s fashionable consumption to the fore at a time when it was otherwise obscured.

Drawing inspiration from theories of fashion and consumption, the project reconceptualizes polar expeditions as sites for consumption.

The empirical focus will be on two fashion brands, Jaeger and Burberry, whose early histories are inextricably linked with that of polar exploration. The project includes a variety of primary

📚 Sources & References

hitherto unused documents from company archives, adverts and articles in the press, books written by explorers themselves, and items of clothing. The time schedule of the project is estimated at three years, starting January 2025 and involves one researcher working 75%. The project offers a new take on polar exploration by abandoning the methodological nationalism that still dominate current research. Instead, items of fashion are placed at the centre of the analysis, highlighting the transnational nature of the expeditions as well as that of the emerging mass market for fashion.

All Grantees

Lund University

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